We quickly learned that summer
is Santa Fe’s most exciting season and we plunged into the events there.
We bought tickets to the Santa
Fe Opera, a famous and respected company that performs under a permanent, soaring
tent-like roof that only lets in the rain when wind is blowing, which is whenever
it rains during a performance. The
translation of the singing is printed on the back of the seat in front of you,
allowing for full understanding of just how silly opera librettos are.
We saw “Daphne,”
a Richard Strauss opera about a woman would rather become a tree than have sex
with a God. Actually it may have
been a documentary about my former marriage.
We
also enjoyed the noon, hour-long Chamber music series, where we heard talented
musicians for $15 tickets.
At a Spanish restaurant, El
Mason, we loved the small tapas plates and the Three Faces of Jazz, which is really
a quartet and sometimes plays as a quintet. The trio that isn’t a trio was a fine introduction to Santa
Fe quaint.
As
we wandered around Santa Fe, we couldn’t help noticing that nearly every
building was adobe, defined as “sun-dried, unburned brick of clay and straw.” The main variation was between sensuously curved
walls that were lighter or darker shades of brown.
Adobe
apparently prevents builders from creating sharp edges in their structures,
which imparted an old Spanish charm to Santa Fe. Or at least I thought it did until we attended a
lecture/presentation by architect Frank Geary, creator of the soaring, metallic
Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the similarly soaring and metallic Walt Disney
Concert Hall in Los Angeles. The
moderator, noting that this was Geary’s first visit, asked what his impression
was of Santa Fe.
Geary’s answer: “Brown. Everything is brown.”
Of course, he was mostly right,
although I think he was wrong in wanting structures of materials other than
adobe in Santa Fe. I say let him
go to New York if he wants to find hard edges.
So the cultural side of Santa Fe is somewhat diminished by its architecture - leaky, brown and rounded?
ReplyDeleteAs for Daphne, J. Kilmer suggested a kinky solution to the God/tree dilema: "But only God can make a tree." The more contemporary definition of "make" generates a happy ending to Strauss' opus.