Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Why we will never eat #HAMBURGER again in #Santa #Fe or anywhere else.


Another restaurant in #Santa #Fe we avoid, despite its being highly recommended for having the best hamburgers for miles around, is #Bobcat Bites, a small, narrow diner.  The reason we have stayed away had nothing to do with the food we were served. 
In the fall, I convinced Grace, who is exceedingly nervous about such things, to go to Ski Santa Fe, a mountaintop skiing center only a few miles from The Plaza.  There the New Millennium Triple Chairlift could take us up to the top of the #Sangre de Cristo Mountains, some 12,075 feet high, to see the panoramic view.   It was late October and the trees promised to be a riot of fall colors. 
The reason such adventures concern her is that she has collected and remembered dozens of incidents involving people stuck on ski lifts for hours or even days, of cables breaking, of Air Force jets attempting to fly under ski lift cables in Italy and killing a few happy-go-lucky and quite surprised tourists.  
Despite her worries, we traveled to the top, enjoyed the trip and marveled at the aspens with their bright yellow leaves and the pines below us, which were often festooned with cheap plastic necklaces (local tradition?  A gift to the ski gods to prevent broken legs and hips?  A love offering?)
After doing that, Grace felt quite brave.  Ever since the mad cow scare and after eating a rare steak in Spain several years ago, Grace and I vowed to avoid red meat where possible. 
But there she was, feeling invincible as we approached #Bobcat #Bites, which many of our friends had recommended.  And we were hungry.
We both ordered the standard #hamburger, which looked as if it weighed five pounds or more.  It was so thick that we could barely get our hands around it to bring it to our mouths.  And it was so rare that it looked more like a wound than a hamburger (my mother overcooked everything, so when I was growing up, I never saw any meat that wasn’t gray or nearly blackened).
The meat was nearly tasteless, requiring gobs of catsup, which brought me back to my family dinners when I was growing up.  Probably because mom overcooked everything, dad put catsup on everything, including cottage cheese, while mom would plaintively complain that he couldn’t taste her meal if everything was covered with an inch of catsup.  Maybe he didn’t want to.
We finished our Bobcat Bite meals, got back in the car and went home, feeling only a little queasy, thinking for only a few moments: what if this is the night we get Mad Cow disease?
The next day, the Sunday New York Times had a front-page story about the growing dangers of e. coli, a serious disease that often is spread by chickens, carelessly washed vegetables and, yes, hamburger.  The story, which jumped to two full pages of horrors on the inside of the paper’s first section, was titled The Burger That Shattered Her Life.    E. coli in a burger caused Stephanie Smith, age 22, a dance instructor, to be permanently paralyzed from the waist down.  
The story revealed how few and how sloppy were the inspections of ground meat:   “Ground beef is not a completely safe product,” said Dr. Jeffrey Bender, a food safety expert at the University of Minnesota who helped develop systems for tracing E. Coli contamination. 
Ms. Smith’s hamburger came from Cargill, which has $116.6 billion in revenues.  Among the more disturbing quotes in the story: “Workers slicing away the hides can inadvertently spread feces to the meat, and large clamps that hold the hide during processing sometimes slip and smear the meat with feces…”  
“… last year, workers sued Greater Omaha, alleging that they were not paid for the time they need to clean contaminants off their knives and other gear before and after their shifts.”
“But when it came to E. Coli, Cargill did not screen the ingredients and only tested once the grinding was done.” 
We learned that Costco demands testing, therefore Tyson will not sell to them.   “A recent industry test in which spiked samples of meat were sent to independent laboratories used by food companies found that some missed the E. Coli in as many as 80 per cent of the samples.”
       “Cargill investigators discovered that their own inspectors had lodged complaints about unsanitary conditions in the weeks before the outbreak, but that they had failed to set off any alarms within the department.”
        “Inspectors had found “large amounts of patties on the floor,” “grinders that were gnarly with old bits of meat, and a worker who routinely dumped inedible meat on the floor close to a production line, records show.”
We learned our lesson, once again.  We promised never, ever to eat hamburgers again, unless we grind the beef ourselves, and probably not even then.  Needless to say, we have not been back to Bobcat Bites.

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